2WD is going to be the big thing for the 2009/10 micro national season starting this October and after the success of the class in August's Hereford Open the future looks promising.

Losi's Mini-T/Baja/DT series, Thunder Tiger's ZK-2/ZT-2 and Tamiya's GB01/GB02 off-road micros are all race legal out of the box for the 2WD class under the BRCA rules and most impressively three out of the top four last season including the winner were all running Losi Mini-T's making it the top choice for racing.

With all the PMs and email I've been having lately all asking virtually the same thing I thought it only right to create a guide to starting racing with the Losi Mini-T. My guide will primarily focus on the top-specification Mini-T Pro due to this being the only version of the Mini-T I've ever owned, but most of the info and advice can be put to good use on the RTR models which can be upgraded to full Mini-T Pro specification as and when required. The Losi Mini-T comes in a variety of different specifications as both a pro-roller minus electrics and a selection of ready to runs.

:: Losi Mini-T Series ::

• LOSB0200 - Losi Mini-T Stadium Truck RTR
• LOSB0200LE - Losi Mini-T Limited Edition Stadium Truck RTR
• LOSB0202 - Losi Mini-Desert Truck RTR
• LOSB0203 - Losi Mini-Baja RTR
• LOSB0210 - Losi Mini-T Pro ARR

A lot of people ask me what needs changing on the Mini-T so it can be raced successfully and the good news is not much. The Pro version of the Mini-T includes many of the items you'd want to upgrade for competitive racing as standard, whilst for RTR Mini-T owners I've listed the upgraded items on the Mini-T Pro below for any one wanting to hop their RTR up to full Pro specification.

:: Parts needed to upgrade RTR to Mini-T Pro specification ::

• LOSAB1100 - Losi Ball Bearing Kit 4x8mm (8): Mini-T, MLST/2, MRAM
• LOSAB1110 - Losi Aluminium Shock Set: Mini-T
• LOSAB1125 - Losi Ball Diff w/Outdrive BB: Mini-T,MLST/2
• LOSAB1131 - Losi Dual Disk Slipper: Mini-T
• LOSB1136 - Losi DD Slipper Gear Cover: Mini-T
• LOSAB1215 - Losi Sport Mini-T Speed Motor
• LOSAB1226 - Losi Servo Saver, Hitec HS-55: Mini-T
• LOSAB1230 - Losi Titanium Turnbuckle Set (6): Mini-T
• LOSAB1240 - Losi CV-Driveshaft Set: Mini-T
• LOSAB1305 - Losi Mini-SR Clear Body w/Masks & Stickers: Mini-T

Back on topic the only items you need to replace on the Mini-T Pro for reliability’s sake are the motor plate and turn-buckle ends. See the relevant sections down below for the reasons why and what to fit instead.

A hint when looking for Mini-T spares and hop-ups: On the main Losi site and in the products manuals part numbers usually go along the lines of LOSB####. If you can't find the item in-stock anywhere it's most likely because for some reason here in the UK they're referred to as LOSAB####. So always try the part number again with the 'A' added if your struggling.

The Mini-T Pro is a very durable car for its size but things do break like on any car, and from experience if the jumps are big it’s either going to be the rear hubs or the lower ball connector cups on the rear shocks.

• LOSAB1027 - Losi Spindle, Carrier & Hub Set: Mini-T
• LOSAB1114 - Losi Shock Plastics & Hardware: Mini-T

Other items you’ll want to keep in your pit box are the fixings, as due to the small size your bound to loose the odd e-clip or two whilst working on the car, and finding them at 2:00am in the morning before a race on the living room carpet is no fun for sure, lol !

• LOSAB1043 - Losi E-Clips (10): Mini-T
• LOSAB1045 - Losi Wheel Nuts & Drive Pins: Mini-T
• LOSAB1047 - Losi Screw Set: Mini-T, Mini-Slider
• LOSAB1048 - Losi Body Clips (10): Mini-T, MLST/2, MRAM

The Mini-T Pro comes with a couple of tools to get you started being a box wrench and a turnbuckle wrench.

You’ll need a #1 Philips screw driver and 0.05in hex driver at the very least to get yours up and running but the best solution is to buy the Dynamite RC Mini-T tool set which includes a 0.05in hex driver, 4mm nut driver, 5.5mm nut driver, 2.0mm flat blade screwdriver and a #1 Philips screwdriver. All these tools are good quality with grippy handles and just the right size for working on the Mini-T. You can pick these kits up for less than £20 too so they’re great value for money and a must have in my opinion.

• DYN2832 - Dynamite RC Mini-T or Mini LST - 5 piece tool set

More than any other 18th micro you have a huge choice of chassis with the Mini-T and after extensive testing I've listed the merits of each below.

I’ve come to the conclusion that for the UK micro racing scene the 164mm wheelbase Losi Mini-Desert Truck or 167mm wheelbase Exotek MXT chassis offer the best all-round package in terms of performance when in the air or on the ground. That’s not to say the standard 142mm wheelbase kit chassis can’t cut it, far from it and in certain situations it’s shorter wheelbase may be an advantage, but for most tracks the two chassis above are the way to go. The Mini-Desert Truck chassis along with the matching battery plate retails for just over £10 so is exceptional value for money and can be fitted to a Mini-T in less than 15 minutes due to the cars modular design !


• LOSAB1014 - Losi Main Chassis Set: Mini-T, Mini-Baja

Kit plastic tub chassis (142mm wheelbase) - As supplied with most of the Mini-T range this chassis is a great all-rounder, strong, durable, light, nimble and relatively stiff, a good choice for most occasions. Interestingly the chassis supplied with the Mini-T Pro has an extra strengthening rib behind where the servo sits which ever so slightly reduces flex in this area. On track though you'd struggle to notice the difference with or without this rib.


• LOSAB1030 - Losi Main Chassis: Mini-Desert Truck

This longer plastic tub chassis (163.7mm wheelbase) along with 'LOSB1032 - Battery Hold Down Set: Mini-DT' as fitted to the Mini-Desert Truck can be added to any of the cars in the Mini-T range to provide them with a longer wheelbase chassis. One of things you'll notice racing a Mini-T is that it can be a handful over some obstacles with it's short wheelbase. The longer Mini-DT chassis fixes this issue and provides much needed stability both on the ground and when in the air. The downside is that the long thin chassis is more flexible than the wider Mini-T chassis but strength and durability are still excellent so there is no fear of any additional breakages.


• MT-019 - 3Racing Graphite Chassis Convention Kit For Mini-T

There are a whole heap of companies making double deck carbon fibre or GRP chassis for the Mini-T which are a direct fit due to retaining the 142mm standard Mini-T wheelbase. I ran the 3Racing Graphite Chassis Convention Kit For Mini-T (MT-019) for the Mini-T at the 2007 Stafford BRCA micro national and did very well indeed with it. The cars handling due to the stiffer chassis was slightly more nimble and planted on the high-grip carpet track and felt to offer a small advantage over the plastic tub kit chassis. The draw back though which is the same with all these double deck chassis is that the car is far more prone to tweak which can be an issue with the many jumps and obstacles micro racing tracks provide.


• Exotek Racing MXT Mini-T Extended Chassis Conversion

This aftermarket chassis is very similar to the genuine Losi Mini-DT chassis but with an ever so 3.3mm longer 167mm wheelbase. The first version of this chassis whilst looking ace was best avoided, not only was it incredibly flexible but also very prone to snapping around the front area. A revised Mk.2 version has happily fixed these problems with material added where it's needed for increased strength and flex reduced with the help of a bolt down carbon fibre top plate and battery strap. Now a very competent chassis and much recommended.


• Exotek Racing MXB PRO Mini-T Pro Buggy Chassis Conversion

This 1.8mm thick carbon fibre chassis conversion for the Mini-T series looks uber sexy and is incredibly well made with a matching buggy body shell, rear wing and all the required mounting hardware. Whilst looking fab I'm not too sure about how they’d perform on track and reserve judgement until I drive one myself as I've found 163 - 167mm to be the optimum length for a rear motored Mini-T wheelbases, so would recommend the shorter MXT or Mini-DT every time. The 190mm wheelbase is also not legal under the BRCA rules (max 185mm) so would be unusable for national level events.

Losi along with several aftermarket manufacturers do wide range of body shells for the Mini-T including clear and pre-painted shells. The main styles are listed below and from testing I've found the Mini-SR body shell as supplied with the Mini-T Pro to have a slight edge. I'm not too sure if this is psychological or not but the shell is more rounded than the rest which will help with aerodynamics. I also further bend the rear spoiler a tad to a more upright position for increased down force and rear end traction.

• LOSAB1008 - Losi Mini-T Clear Body w/Stickers
• LOSAB1301 - Losi Mini-T 150 Body w/Masks & Stickers
• LOSAB1302 - Losi Mini-CK (Chevrolet) Body w/Masks & Stickers
• LOSAB1303 - Losi Mini-H20 (Hummer H2) Body w/Masks & Stickers
• LOSAB1305 - Losi Mini-SR Clear Body w/Masks & Stickers: Mini-T
• LOSAB1358 - Losi Mini-Baja pre-painted body (black)

If your running the longer Mini-Desert Truck chassis you can use one of Losi’s fine clear or pre-painted Mini-DT bodyshells, or if your racing and need a rear spoiler but still want to retain the Mini-T look, many of the truck bodyshells designed for the Associated RC18T such as the Exotek Racing Kuda will fit straight on with the optional Losi Mini-T extended body mounts kit (LOSB1300).

• LOSAB1300 - Losi Extended Body Mounts: Mini-T
• LOSAB1319 - Losi Mini-DT Body, Clear with Sticker Sheet & Masks

The overall design of the Mini-T suspension is extremely good being based upon the super successful 10th scale Losi XXX-T, but there are a few tuning tips you can use to make it even better.

First off you’ll have noticed there is a fair amount of play between some of parts at the front of the car, most noticeably the steering assembly. Shimming these components will remove most of this play but remember to make sure that you don’t cause any of the parts to bind, a little play is better than a sticking wishbone which would create an inconsistent handling car. Tamiya do a 3mm shim pack (53585) with 10 shims of 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm which does the job nicely.

It’s also worth using a small file or wet and dry paper to remove any burrs and moulding lines which may cause components to bind whilst your looking at the steering and suspension assemblies.

Tuning wise I like to add one of the thin plastic spacers that come supplied with the shocks under each side of the inboard front camber ball connectors. Adding this spacer will make the truck more stable and keep the front end flatter, and works well on higher bite tracks. I also add two spacers on each side underneath the outboard front camber ball connectors. Doing this will stop the turnbuckles catching on the front shock absorber springs and removing all that nice pink powder-coating :)

I’ve also found that adding one spacer underneath the ball connector which attaches to steering rack to the servo track rod is a worthwhile tweak. Although the Mini-T Pro manual has limited tuning advice you can download the manual for the 10th XXX-T-CR from Losi’s main web site, www.losi.com, which includes detailed set-up information and is a very worthwhile read.

A last upgrade I like to do is replace all the kit hinge pins with the Dynamite RC Mini-T Ti-Nitride Hinge Pin Set (DYN8023). The kit hinge pins are plenty strong enough but these parts give added peace of mind and are harder wearing too.

• DYN8023 - Dynamite RC Ti-Nitride hinge pin set (Mini-T)
• 53585 - Tamiya 3mm shim pack. 10 shims of 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm

The titanium turnbuckles supplied with the Mini-T Pro are excellent, very strong and lightweight. The plastic rod ends are less impressive though having an annoying tenancy to pop-off just at the wrong moment. If your racing replacing the rod ends is a necessity if you want DNF free racing.

Many internet forums say you have to replace the entire turnbuckle with 10th scale items which is completely untrue. If you’re breaking the titanium shafts you’re really doing something wrong. Also replacing them with 10th items brings some added problems being that you'll need to replace the ball connectors for larger items which will require a larger thread to be cut into the adjacent components. This especially where the kit plastic parts are concerned can considerably weaken them in places where strength is needed due to reduced material mass. Another issue is that 10th turnbuckles can end up rubbing various parts of the car requiring yet more cutting and sanding.

After a long search I've found two solutions to the problem. One is to use an aftermarket turn-buckle set compatible with the kit 4mm ball connectors, K-Factory ones work well but the chunkier 3mm turnbuckle shafts do fowl the front shock absorber springs.

My favourite solution, and the one which lets you retain the excellent Losi titanium turnbuckle shafts is to replace the rod ends with the 3-Racing rod end set. This set can be picked up for only a few pounds, and so far I've never had one pop-off. I also always use Losi Foam Things (LOSAB6003) on all of the ball connectors to keep dust out and reduce wear.

• LOSAB1230 - Losi Titanium Turnbuckle Set (6): Mini-T
• LOSAB1231 - Losi Titanium Turnbuckles 24mm:(2) Mini-T
• LOSAB1232 - Losi Titanium Turnbuckles 30mm:(2) Mini-T
• LOSAB6003 - Losi Foam Things, Linkage Rings
• MT-028/V2 - 3Racing Mini-T Ball End Cap Set (14PCS)

The Mini-T Pro shocks are miniature marvels and very smooth in action with their hard anodised oil filled bodies and Ti-Nitride coated shafts. However they can leak unless you do two things: double up on the transparent ring seals and follow the instructions supplied with them to the letter. If you do you'll be rewarded with a leak free set of easily the best micro shocks on the market.

There is a small bag of black plastic spacers supplied with the shocks which can be inserted between the piston and barrel as a form of limiter to adjust droop. I myself prefer not to use them so having the full range of motion available for the shock absorbers.

Some of you may have noticed that Losi do an aluminium threaded shock set for the Mini-Late Model/Slider (LOSAB1289 - Aluminium Threaded Shock Set(4): MLM) which can be fitted to the Mini-T range. These shock absorbers feature the same design as the Mini-T Pro items with hard anodised aluminium barrels and titanium nitride coated shafts, but differ in having threaded bodies for more accurate ride-height adjustment. The bad news is that whilst they do fit perfectly at the front, the rear units have shorter shafts and bodies than the Mini-T Pro items, so whilst great for on-road use allowing the car to be lowered significantly, the lack of travel and reduced oil volume does mean that the Mini-T Pro Aluminium Shock Set (LOSAB1110) is still the way forward for off-road use.

• LOSAB1110 - Losi Aluminium Shock Set: Mini-T
• LOSAB1111 - Losi Front Shock Shafts (pr): Mini-T
• LOSAB1112 - Losi Rear Shock Shafts (pr): Mini-T
• LOSAB1113 - Losi Shock Cartridges/Seals (2): Mini-T
• LOSAB1114 - Losi Shock Plastics & Hardware: Mini-T
• LOSAB1117 - Losi Front Shock Springs (3pr): Mini-T
• LOSAB1119 - Losi Rear Shock Springs (3pr): Mini-T
• LOSAB1289 - Losi Aluminium Threaded Shock Set (4): MLM

Set-up wise running NiMhs or LiPos makes a big difference due the weight being so much lower with LiPos.

:: NiMhs ::

• Front Springs : Losi orange (hard)
• Front Pistons : Kit, 3-hole
• Front Shock Oil : Losi 40wt
• Front Shock Limiters : None
• Front Shock Ride Height Spacers : 2mm
• Front Shock Tower Position : Middle
• Front Lower Wishbone Position : Outer
• Front Inner Camber Link Position : Inner
• Front Camber Turnbuckle Length : 10.0 mm
• Front Steering Turnbuckle Length : 16.0 mm

• Rear Springs : Losi blue (hard)
• Rear Pistons : Kit, 2-hole
• Rear Shock Oil : Losi 35wt
• Rear Shock Limiters : None
• Rear Shock Ride Height Spacers : None
• Rear Shock Tower Position : Middle
• Rear Lower Wishbone Position : Middle
• Rear Inner Camber Link Position : Outer
• Rear Inner Camber Link Position : Inner
• Rear Camber Turnbuckle Length : 15.5 mm

:: LiPos ::

• Front Springs : Losi pink (soft)
• Front Pistons : Kit, 3-hole
• Front Shock Oil : Losi 30wt
• Front Shock Limiters : None
• Front Shock Ride Height Spacers : 2mm
• Front Shock Tower Position : Middle
• Front Lower Wishbone Position : Inner
• Front Inner Camber Link Position : Inner
• Front Camber Turnbuckle Length : 9.5 mm
• Front Steering Turnbuckle Length : 15.7 mm

• Rear Springs : Losi silver (soft)
• Rear Pistons : Kit, 2-hole
• Rear Shock Oil : Losi 25wt
• Rear Shock Limiters : None
• Rear Shock Ride Height Spacers : 2mm
• Rear Shock Tower Position : Outer
• Rear Lower Wishbone Position : Inner
• Rear Inner Camber Link Position : Outer
• Rear Inner Camber Link Position : Inner
• Rear Camber Turnbuckle Length : 15.5 mm

Notes : You may depending on LiPo weight and track layout want to use the Losi red (medium) front springs and Losi green (medium) rear springs along with increasing the shock oil 5wt all-round (35wt F, 30wt R).

• LOSA5212 - Losi Certified shock fluid 17.5WT (clear)
• LOSA5213 - Losi Certified shock fluid 22.5WT (clear)
• LOSA5214 - Losi Certified shock fluid 27.5WT (clear)
• LOSA5215 - Losi Certified shock fluid 32.5WT (clear)
• LOSA5216 - Losi Certified shock fluid 37.5WT (clear)
• LOSA5218 - Losi Certified shock fluid 45WT (orange)
• LOSA5221 - Losi Certified shock fluid 15WT (red)
• LOSA5222 - Losi Certified shock fluid 20WT (blue)
• LOSA5223 - Losi Certified shock fluid 25WT (green)
• LOSA5224 - Losi Certified shock fluid 30WT (clear)
• LOSA5225 - Losi Certified shock fluid 35WT (orange)
• LOSA5226 - Losi Certified shock fluid 40WT (purple)
• LOSA5240 - Losi Off-road pack 6 Pack (20,25,30,35,40,45WT Oil)

The front axles do the job well enough but being steel are heavy, so I replace them with the MIP Mini-T Lightweight front axles (MIP1558) which are made from aluminium and are at least a third of the weight of the kit items. Not essential by a long shot but a cheap and effective upgrade.

• MIP1558 - MIP Lightweight front axles (Mini-T)

The Mini-T Pro steel CVD drive shafts are made by MIP and are super strong and hard wearing. They require no fettling and except for periodic cleaning are fit and forget. Superb and much recommended for RTR owners looking to upgrade.

• LOSAB1240 - Losi CV-Driveshaft Set: Mini-T
• LOSB1242 - Losi CVD Axle: Mini-T, Mini-Baja
• LOSB1243 - Losi CVD Rebuild/Hardware Kit: Mini-T, Mini-Baja

If you’re running one of the RTR models and plan on using anything more powerful than a 5400kv brushless motor then upgrading to the Mini-T Pro ball differential is a must. Several other companies make replacement ball diffs for the Mini-T but I find that the carbide steel diff balls fitted to the genuine Losi diff makes all the difference in both performance and durability. The balls are so hard that they'll last the life of the unit if serviced regularly. The diff plates can groove quite heavily but worry not as a few minutes with some 1200 grit wet and dry paper can restore them to like new condition. Just take care to make sure that you sand the rings evenly or the diff action will be comprised and become notchy.

I've tried various greases and find Losi's recommended Diff Lube (LOSA3065) to work best. For the thrust race the recommended Losi Super Stick Assembly Grease (LOSA3066) works well and I have also discovered that Losi Hi-Pressure Black Grease (LOSA99203) works wonders here too.

The diff outdrives are steel so are hard wearing, but the tiny springs situated inside them require a little treatment to stop them from binding on the drive shafts (identifiable by a faint clicking sound). Remove the springs and gently sand each end with 800 grit wet and dry paper to flatten the edge off the springs coil.

• LOSAB1125 - Losi Ball Diff w/Outdrive BB: Mini-T,MLST/2
• LOSAB1126 - Losi Ball Diff Rebuild Kit: Mini-T
• LOSAB1129 - Losi Ball Diff Outdrive Set: Mini-T
• LOSA3065 - Losi Diff Lube
• LOSA3066 - Losi Super Stick Assembly Grease
• LOSA99203 - Losi Hi-Pressure Black Grease, 8cc

Some people don't like using any form of lubrication on the gears inside the transmission claiming that it increases drag. Whilst this may be true if you over do it I prefer to use a tiny amount of grease to reduce wear, friction and drive train noise. Your aiming for the gears to look damp only, so a tiny half pea sized blob of grease is more than enough to coat all the gears and the idler gear shaft.

When assembling the transmission don’t over tighten the three screws which hold the two gear case halves together. Only tighten them until you feel them start to become tight and then back them off half a turn. If you do over tighten them you risk binding-up the transmission !

• LOSA3066 - Losi Super Stick Assembly Grease

For optimum performance and minimum drag I like to remove the bearings when new and flush out any grease. For this I just soak them in a small pot filled with WD40 overnight, then clean thoroughly and allow to dry. I then lube the bearings with a light good quality bearing oil and wipe away any excess before re-fitting. It's important to not over oil the bearings as whilst the metal shields reduce friction they can cause the lube to weep out compared to rubber seals which then attracts dirt and grime right where you don't need it.

• LOSB1060 - Losi Transmission Ball Bearing Set:Mini T, MLST/2, MRAM
• LOSAB1100 - Losi Ball Bearing Kit 4x8mm (8): Mini-T, MLST/2, MRAM
• LOSAB1128 - Losi Ball Diff Halves w/Bearings: Mini-T
• 53508 - Tamiya Metal Bearing Lubricating Oil. Bottle

The dual disk slipper fitted to the Mini-T Pro features two hard anodised alloy plates with fibre friction rings running against the spur gear sandwiched in-between. This slipper clutch is incredibly sensitive to adjustment with a fine line between too tight and too loose. To give yourself the best possible chance of getting it's adjustment just right you need to make sure that the parts are completely clean and free of any contaminants such as oil or grease that may have weeped from the transmission if over lubricated and along the main input shaft.

If the white fibre rings look shiny you can restore them to there natural grippy matt finish with a little 800 grit wet and dry paper.

I find it more precise to adjust the slipper with the gear cover removed using a small 5mm spanner and 0.05 hex drive as you can actually feel the adjustment much better than just slotting a nut driver through the inspection hole and winding away.

A small alloy tube is situated between the two bearings supporting the main input shaft on the side of the spur gear assembly. This shaft can occasionally have sharp edges or be slightly oversized in length causing the bearings to be loaded slightly and bind. Remove this tube and lightly sand the ends with 1200 grit wet and dry until the edges are smooth and rounded, then re-fit.

• LOSAB1131 - Losi Dual Disk Slipper: Mini-T
• LOSAB1132 - Losi DD Slipper Top Shaft & Spacer: Mini-T
• LOSAB1133 - Losi DD Slipper Hardware: Mini-T
• LOSAB1134 - Losi DD Slipper Plates: Mini-T (2)
• LOSAB1135 - Losi DD Slipper Pads: Mini-T (2)
• LOSAB1137 - Losi DD Slipper 60T Spur Gear: Mini-T

The clear lexan gear cover has a tendency to rub slightly against the right hand diff outdrive creating friction, and can sometimes be characterised by a high pitched squealing when at full throttle. Remove the cover and make a small notch on it around the outdrive so that it avoids contact.

• LOSB1136 - Losi DD Slipper Gear Cover: Mini-T

I've always stuck with the Losi DD Slipper 60T Spur Gear (LOSAB1137) as it's hard wearing and does the job well. Pinion gear wise the plastic items supplied with the Mini-T Pro are designed for motors with a 2.3mm shaft so whilst they will fit on the competition brushed and brushless motors with 2mm shafts they'll end up slipping when you punch the throttle and eventually wear until they offer no drive.

• LOSB1069 - Losi Pinion Gear Bag: Mini-T (for motors with 2.3mm shaft)

Losi do a small range of metal pinions for the Mini-T which can also fit any micro with a 2mm motor shaft and 48dp spur gear. I change pinion gear according to the track but for most indoor tracks I've raced upon with a 5400Kv or 6000Kv motor, 10 to 14 tooth is the range I use. It's worth noting that whilst 48dp pinion gears for the RC18 may fit some including the RW Racing range have the grub screw in such a place that it is impossible to position the pinion without it fowling the spur gear or not biting onto the motor shaft, so always buy pinions designed for the Mini-T. I like Losi's range best !

Handy tip, sometimes those little metal pinions can be a tight fit on the motors shaft, if this is the case just run a 2mm drill bit through the pinion's centre using a pin vice and then use a 2.5mm drill bit to just de-burr the ends to stop the pinion snatching on the motor shaft. Never force the pinions on as you risk damaging the motor in doing so.

• LOSB1260 - Losi Pinion Gear Set, 9T-12T: Mini Vehicles
• LOSB1261 - Losi Pinion Gear Set, 13T-16T: Mini Vehicles
• LOSB1262 - Losi Pinion Gear Set, 17T-20T: Mini Vehicles
• LOSB1263 - Losi Pinion Gear Set, 14T, 16T, 18T, 20T: Mini Vehicles
• LOSB1264 - Losi Pinion Set Screw w/Wrench (5): Mini Vehicles

The kit motor plate whilst fine for bashing can be bent a little too easily when racing on some of the slightly less forgiving tracks found at some indoor micro events. Replace it with an aftermarket aluminium item which will also help act as an improved motor heatsink whilst resisting bending more effectively. Most are very similar and range from £5 to £10, but if you can the Dynamite RC motor plate is the one to go for as it is slightly thicker than any others I have come across.

• DYN8011B - Dynamite RC Blue Motor Plate
• DYN8011R - Dynamite RC Red Motor Plate
• DYN8011S - Dynamite RC Silver Motor Plate

The Mini-T Pro can be run with any wheels and tyres from the Mini-T range including the realistic looking Mini-Desert Truck, Mini-Slider and Mini-Late Model items. For racing though Losi's dish wheels are the way to go being aerodynamic, lightweight, stiff and very strong. They also come in white, yellow, chrome and copper finishes, plus are available in wide or narrow widths for the front.

• LOSB1146 - Losi Front Wheels (Pr), Narrow, Yellow: MB
• LOSB1147 - Losi Front Wheels (Pr), Narrow, Chrome: MB
• LOSB1148 - Losi Front Wheels (Pr), Narrow, White: MB
• LOSB1149 - Losi Front Wheels (Pr), Narrow, Copper: MB
• LOSB1150 - Losi Front Wheels, Yellow (pr): Mini-T
• LOSB1151 - Losi Front Wheels, Chrome (pr): Mini-T
• LOSB1152 - Losi Front Wheels, White (pr): Mini-T

• LOSB1159 - Losi Rear Wheels (Pr), Copper: MB
• LOSB1160 - Losi Rear Wheels, Yellow (pr): Mini-T
• LOSB1161 - Losi Rear Wheels, Chrome (pr): Mini-T
• LOSB1162 - Losi Rear Wheels, White (pr): Mini-T

Losi along with several other companies make a wide selection of tyres for the Mini-T, I've always stuck with the genuine Losi tyres finding there slightly softer rubber compound to offer significantly more grip than others I've tried. All of Losi's tyres come supplied with soft foam inserts to provide some lateral support for the tyres when cornering and can also come pre-glued to the wheels as well. Unless your experimenting with different density foam inserts I'd recommend going with the pre-glued option, being far less messy and very professionally glued too. I've listed and rated the more suitable tyres for racing below. I've purposely missed out Losi's Mini-T sand tyres as beach racing sadly isn't part of the UK micro national scene, perhaps one day :) All comments are based upon the multi-surface carpet based indoor tracks we race upon in the UK which feature carpet, wood, and lino surfaces.

A handy tuning aid I've found is the use of Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) on the outer sidewalls of the front tyres to keep grip roll at bay. Don't under-estimate just how powerful a tuning tool this is as a car struggling with too much front end bite can quickly be changed into dialled by a bottle of this multi-use liquid. Loctite sell CA-glue in a small pot with a brush inside the lid which is ideal for smooth application of the glue.


:: Losi Front Directional Tyres ::

Available in two widths the narrow variants look great for Mini-T's with buggy conversions and offer more initial bite but less overall grip. I personally prefer the wider standard tyre as supplied with Mini-T Pro as I find it offers a more predictable feel and higher overall grip especially on mid-corner and exit. A great all rounder and my personal choice for use at the front of my Mini-T's.

• LOSB1076 - Losi Front Tires & Wheels, Glued: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1153 - Losi Front Tires w/Foam,Directional Rib: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1155 - Losi Front Tires w/Foam, Narrow Rib: MB (2)
• LOSB1174 - Losi Front Narrow Ribbed, Glued, Copper Wheels: MB (2)
• LOSB1175 - Losi Front Directional Glued, Chrome Wheels: Mini-T (2)

:: Losi Street Treads Tyres ::

Also know as 'Street Meats' these tyres are primarily designed for use on tarmac or concrete and offer great traction on these surfaces along with a good wear rate. The fronts come in two widths though I've only tested the standard wider size so far. These wider Street Treads are the same front and rear with just the wheels differing if supplied pre-glued. From racing these on carpet I found the Mini-T to exhibit quite a bias of front to rear grip especially on the slippy lino drift sections with the rears not offering as much bite as the Smasher or spike based tyres. With the narrow fronts the car may be more balanced but I have yet to try these. Overall a good choice for grippier tracks and a long tyre life but lacking the performance of the directional rib front and Smasher/spike rear tyre combinations.

• LOSB1156 - Losi Front Tire, Narrow, Street Meat: Mini Slider (2)
• LOSB1170 - Losi Front/Rear Tires w/Foam, Street Meats Tread: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1177 - Losi Front Street Treads Glued, Chrome Wheel: Mini-T(2)
• LOSB1186 - Losi Front Street Treads Glued,Yellow Wheels:Mini-T (2)

• LOSB1181 - Losi Rear Street Treads Glued, Chrome Wheels: Mini-T(2)
• LOSB1191 - Losi Rear Street Treads Glued, Yellow Wheels: Mini-T (2)

:: Losi Smashers Tyres ::

Not only do these tyres look fabulous they also work very well too. Designed for hard packed surfaces they offer increased durability over the spike tyres at the rear whilst when fitted to the front they give some additional bite over the directional rib tyres. The same tyres again are used front or rear with only the wheels differing if supplied pre-glued. A great all-round tyre choice, and also work well when mixed and matched with rib tyres at the front.

• LOSB1171 - Losi Front/Rear Tires w/Foam, Mini-Smasher: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1176 - Losi Front Mini-T Smashers Glued: Chrome Wheels (2)
• LOSB1180 - Losi Rear Mini-T Smashers Glued: Chrome Wheels (2)
• LOSB1185 - Losi Front Smashers Glued, Yellow Wheels: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1190 - Losi Rear Smashers Glued, Yellow Wheels: Mini-T (2)

:: Losi Rear Taper-Pin Tyres ::

Losi's Taper-Pins offer the ultimate in rear end grip and stick to carpet like velcro. Lots of grip from these fuzzy mini spikes does come at the expense of wear but if your racing these are probably the best rear tyres to go for grip wise especially if the grip is low.

• LOSB1078 - Losi Rear Tires & Yellow Wheels, Glued: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1163 - Losi Rear Tires w/Foam, Taper Pin: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1178 - Losi Rear Taper Pins Glued, Chrome Wheels: Mini-T (2)

:: Losi Rear Step-Pin Tyres ::

My personal favourites these longer spikes offer slightly less grip than the Taper-Pins but are a better all-rounder in that they'll slide rather than snatch if pushed to the limit and are also much harder wearing. Being designed for softer surfaces the longer spikes out of the packet can make the car inconsistent, so I cut all of the spikes in half. This makes them just right grip wise and still offers better wear characteristics than the Taper-Pins. 99% of the time I'll use these along with the standard width directional rib tyres at the front.

• LOSB1164 - Losi Rear Tires w/Foam, Step-Pins: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1179 - Losi Rear Mini-T Step Pins Glued: Chrome Wheels (2)
• LOSB1189 - Losi Rear Step Pins Glued,Yellow Wheels: Mini-T (2)
• LOSB1193 - Losi Rear Step-Pins, Glued, Copper, Wheels: MB (2)

:: Losi Foam Tyres ::

Foam tyres aren't allowed for the 2009/10 BRCA micro national series in the 2WD class but since I'd tested them in the past I though including them would only be fair. The foams are a very firm compound, U45 front and Grey rears. Due to additive also being banned for UK micro racing you really need the grip levels to be high before using them makes sense over the rubber tyres. Once the grip is high enough though they offer good performance and exceptional resistance to chunking or wear.

• LOSB1141 - Losi Front Mounted Foam Tires/Whls (pr): Mini-T/Slider (2)
• LOSB1144 - Losi Rear Mounted Foam Tires/Whls (pr): Mini-T/Slider (2)

I always use the forward position for positioning battery packs on the chassis, this helps to keep the Mini-T flatter when jumping and avoids any under steer on slippery low traction surfaces.

If your running a Spektrum 2.4GHz radio system it's worth getting one of the tiny Spektrum Micro receivers. Not only will they save weight and space under your Mini-T's body shell but they also enable you to mount them lower down on the main chassis behind the battery pack rather than on the top deck. The more electrics you can get low the better as it will help lower the centre of gravity which will noticeably improve your Mini-T's handling. I've recently been experimenting with using tiny sub 1000mAh 7.2v LiPo packs which enable me to get all of the electrics including the ESC (Losi Xcelorin) on the lower main chassis plate.

• SR3500 DSM 3-Channel Micro Racing Receiver (DSM1)
• SR3520 DSM 3-Channel Micro Racing Receiver (DSM2)

If your running NiMh cells and brushless I'd recommend purchasing a Spektrum Voltage Protector (SPM160) for your receiver as the high current draw from the powerful motors can momentarily leave your personal transponder starved of power just when you don't need it. I still run one for piece of mind even though I've changed to LiPos this season.

The Mini-T Pro comes supplied with a servo saver for the Hitec HS-55 micro servo and both are what I'd recommend for use. The servo saver is a good compromise between strength and some give in the case of a coming together with a track barrier or immovable object.

The analogue Hitec HS-55 servo whilst not the flashiest in the world is a perfect fit inside the Mini-T and does a good honest job. Being plastic geared hasn't caused me any issues yet but if your worried Hitec do a metal geared version of the servo called the HS-5055MG, this servo is also digital so well worth having if you can find one as they are super rare at the moment. If your running the older analogue HS-55 and have a posh transmitter such as the Spektrum DX3R which allows you to change the frame rate you can get away with running the servo at 11ms but it will shorten its life span so 16.5ms is recommended. 5.5ms will fry the servo so is best avoided.

Scanner-RC have a range of great micro servos and the metal geared SSV-9314MG fits nicely into the Mini-T chassis with just the servo mounting posts needing to be reversed. I'm still looking for a compatible servo saver so I can use this servo but it's much higher specification means that any effort will be very much worthwhile.

• LOSAB1226 - Losi Servo Saver, Hitec HS-55: Mini-T
• Hitec HS-55 Feather Servo
• Hitec HS-5055MG Digital Feather Servo
• Scanner-RC SSV-9314MG

Micro brushless systems, especially sensorless have come a long way over the past year or two and now offer sensored levels of drivability in the top systems such as the Castle Creation's Micro and Losi's 1/18th Xcelorin range.

Software is everything at the moment in brushless and an ESC which allows for the firmware to be updated is essential to maximise performance and shelf life of your speed controller, and the ability to be tuned via a PC is also a very worthwhile feature to have allowing total customisation to your driving style. Both Castle Creations Micro and Losi's Xcelorin range have these features (optional Castle Link kit required for Castle Creations micro ESCs).

Last season I ran the Castle Creations Mamba 25 (now superseded by Sidewinder Micro) and it never let me down once, and the new top of the range Micro Mamba Pro I've found to be amazingly smooth with it's power delivery, so smooth infact you'd think it was sensored. The Micro Mamba Pro has a 35amp limit (25amp for Sidewinder Micro), the ability to handle up to 12 NiMh or 3 LiPo cells, brushed or brushless capability, thick 16 gauge wiring and a low profile heatsink which are just some of the features that make it the best micro ESC on the market. Tim 'The Legend' Mohr uses nothing else and he's a man who really knows his stuff.

Losi's 1/18 Xcelorin Brushless Electronic Speed Controller (LOSB9535) whilst cheaper than many others doesn't appear to be lacking in any areas, the outright punch and especially the brakes are amazing, possibly helped by the external power capacitor which keeps the unit running cool and efficiently. It even comes with a handy pocket set-up card and all the cables and software required to connect to a PC making it exceptional value for money ! For racing you will need to replace the micro battery connectors for something capable of taking a higher load, I use Trickbits Deans Ultra connectors (TB2011) and whilst your doing this it's also worth shortening the battery and motor wires as much as possible. Please note your invalidating your warranty by doing this so please don't attempt unless your competent at soldering and accept the risks involved !

If your really on a tight budget the Dynamite RC Mini Tazer (DYN4930) is worth a look, whilst less adjustable than the Castle and Losi ESCs it still offers a LiPo cut-off to protect your cells and is a feature which is mandatory under the BRCA Micro Section rules.

• CC-MMP - Castle Creations Mamba Micro Pro ESC
• CC-SWM - Castle Creations Sidewinder Micro ESC
• DYN4930 - Dynamite RC Mini Tazer Brushless Forward/Reverse ESC
• LOSB9535 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin Brushless Electronic Speed Control

If your serious about racing brushless is a must have ! You can get equivalent speeds from brushed set-ups but the motors will wear fast and require regular replacement, making brushless far more cost effective and reliable in the long term.

Motor wise anything above 6800Kv for indoor micro racing will be wasted and be more of a hindrance than a benefit unless the track is huge. A lower Kv motor will generally offer less revs but more torque and low end control. I find the 5400Kv to 6000Kv band to offer the best all-round performance for the Mini-T.

Many of the sensorless motors on the market are very similar but it's worth noting that the Losi Xcelorin motors have an ever so slightly larger can size (36mm diameter compared to 20mm) which does appear to give them more torque than other brands motors. I myself switch between two motors depending on the track layout, a Castle Creations 5400Kv Brushless Motor (CM-2054) for flowing tracks and a Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 6000Kv Brushless Motor (LOSB9460) for stop-start tracks where more punch or a higher top speed may be required. The Castle Creations and Losi motors can be purchased on there own or as combos with the ESC included for extra value.

If find that letting the motors rev, by dropping down one pinion tooth, against being over geared gives smoother more instantaneous throttle response and totally eradicates any signs of cogging.

• CM-2042 - Castle Creations 4200Kv Brushless Motor
• CM-2054 - Castle Creations 5400Kv Brushless Motor
• CM-2068 - Castle Creations 6800Kv Brushless Motor
• CM-2080 - Castle Creations 8000Kv Brushless Motor
• DYN3710 - Dynamite RC C4 Brushless Motor, 8000Kv
• DYN3715 - Dynamite RC C4 Brushless Motor, 9200Kv
• LOSB9458 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 4100Kv Brushless Motor
• LOSB9459 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 5000Kv Brushless Motor
• LOSB9460 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 6000Kv Brushless Motor
• LOSB9461 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 7400Kv Brushless Motor
• LOSB9462 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 8200Kv Brushless Motor
• LOSB9463 - Losi 1/18 Xcelorin 9400Kv Brushless Motor

The 30-turn Losi Speed motor supplied with the Mini-T Pro is a very good all-round motor with plenty of torque so can be geared quite hard to get a nice turn of speed and is a worthy upgrade if your running the RTR's electronic speed controller.

• LOSAB1215 - Losi Sport Mini-T Speed Motor

For some real power Peak Racing do a selection of brushed Mini-T compatible micro motors and the jewel in the range is the Raider Micro Modified motor (PEK1406). Easily as fast (mega) as a decent brushless system but will require an upgrade to a competition specification ESC such as the Novak Micro GT before it can be used.

• PEK1406 - Peak Racing Raider Micro Modified Motor
• PEK1420 - Peak Racing Replacement Ball Bearing Set for Peak Raider micro motor
• PEK1422 - Peak Racing Replacement Brushes for Peak Raider micro motor

:: Further Information ::

• Dynamite RC, www.dynamiterc.com
• Horizon Hobby, www.horizonhobby.co.uk
• Losi, www.losi.com
• MIP, www.miponline.com
• Peak Racing, www.peakmotors.com
• Spektrum, www.spektrumrc.com

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